World News 05/05/2014

The extra virgin olive oil from Liguria, the real one

Thanks to the Benedictines we had the first quality olive oil, from Taggiasca and Gentile, cultivated in their monastery of S. Maria del Canneto in Taggia

On Italian and international magazines, website and so on we wrote a lot about olive oil in one of the most characteristic for the production of high quality extra virgin Italian: theLiguria Region.
The history of oil in this region dates back to Roman times, with the Pax Romana that consolidated the presence of olive trees in the Mediterranean area and greatly intensified the production of oil. With the fall of the olive groves , however, almost completely disappeared and were replaced by forests. In Liguria, the olive tree, planted at the edge of the property, was used mainly to delimit the extension. The fat, then, were those animals and the countryside were required mainly cereals and legumes; to confirm this, you can find a petition received in 979 by the Bishop of Genoa by settlers that required in perpetual lease stating "except the olive groves" of the land in San Romolo, Taggia and Ceriana .
Thanks to the Benedictines we had the first quality olive oil, from Taggiasca and Gentile, cultivated in their monastery of S. Maria del Canneto in Taggia. And yet the monks were to solve the problem of water supply disruption between the embankments; they built stone walls 'dry' on the slopes of the hills, they filled them with land reclaimed from the slope and so created the 'bands' (terraces ) formed from strips of flat land.
Since then, the cultivation of olive trees in Liguria has been an exponential increase in grafting trees from west to east.
Aside from the infamous costume miserably bottle oil from the middle of the Mediterranean and the like as the Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, I like to tell you the trouble of individual pioneers of quality oil millers and honest working to honor a product now too mistreated.
As Domenico Ruffino producer of superfine Varigotti in Finale Ligure. Thousand plants were really treated as the monks; but not only. How ironically he likes to call himself, in addition to being a grower, he is a carpenter since it must follow personally the miles of stone walls that surround its breathtaking landscape that slopes on the French Riviera. A comforting and not at all obvious his skill and professionalism, led him to end the oil by spring, an incentive for all growers. Heading south in Leivi in the province of Genoa is the Frantoio di Mauro Solari, who not only runs perfectly but its fringes carefully 900 plants olives of his colleagues in facility surrounding, a really great job.
On the border between Liguria and Tuscany, Castelnuovo Magra, Massimo Lagomarsini years gives incredible scents through the enhancement of native cultivars that until now no one had brought to light: Prempesa, Castelnovina and Razzola .
Kudos to Dominic and Massimo Mauro, three men who, in spite of the depressing situation in Liguria that allows you to sell oils anonymous as Ligurian, thanks to them and many others like them, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil excellence will get up really.

di Fausto Borella