Voices 01/03/2010

The logic of simple things

Gualtiero Marchesi

In the matter, and so in every food, it is hidden a flame of truth or, more generally, the poem of things. Everything is, or could be, there, if we can just see it; even better if we can feel it.

A chicken is a chicken but its matter was life, music perhaps? Yes, music actually. This is the key for everything to me. By practicing it, together with arts and literature, it allowed me to cook better, to understand what could be done, avoiding useless acts and the fear of not say enough.

In the dishes prepared to surprise, full of ingredients, whipped as muddles gears, is always hidden a deep lack of self-confidence and the betrayal of matter. A beautiful and colored food is not enough.

That is the reason why, among my menus, there is one called simply cuisine. That can be paraphrased with a concept which is at the same time an invitation and a goal: the logic of the simple things.

Through the constant knowledge of the raw matter, that means the knowledge of places, history and people, you can recognize which are the notes at your disposal, side by side, ready to merge one with the others. Then, it is up to the cook (don’t say chef, please!) to exalt them and, if he is able, to compose a dish which can play for the ear and for the heart. Everybody according to his own style.

Just as example, do you remember the Bolero by Ravel?
Composing successfully a dish is something like that music, where a theme is repeated and it fluxed back and forward in a crescendo or images and sensations.

di Gualtiero Marchesi