Voices 05/03/2012

What is the future of cuisine?

If you would ask me today what is the future of cuisine today, I would say that it is very variegated. Not a great answer, indeed. But the right question is another one, actually. What is the starting point for doing a good cuisine? Trying to answer this question, you can notice how much confusion is around.

The answer I have got to this question is the simplest and the most demanding at the same time. I feel myself modern as much as it is possible given my personal history. We are all pervaded by our past and we all try to understand the present and imagine the future. What does this mean in the context of cuisine?

This means that our effort is to come back to origins and innovate at the
same time, in the same way as we did for the Nouvelle Cuisine, thinking about what Auguste Escoffier taught us.
The chefs that claim to ?create? steal the job to Good or behave more as theologians than as cooks.

There are raw materials and recipes. Nature and culture: not just technique, then, but also sensitivity, curiosity and experience. We need to improve and work on both of them. We need to do better and better everyday, respecting food and, hence, health.

The only way in which a chef can leave their mark is teaching and giving their personal example. But this is possible only over the long time, if life challenges you.
As for teaching, the chef needs some personal attitude and, perhaps, an Academia that educate about what is good and what is nice, putting cuisine on the same level as music, sculpture, painting or writing.

Cuisine speaks a language that is local but that needs to be universal, too.
If cuisine thinks about itself, studies itself and adapts to present, it can?t get lost: it will always know where it is going. Of course, since the Earth is round, everything depends on the local climate and the air.

di Gualtiero Marchesi