Voices 02/04/2012

Two points of view

The purity I’m after

The purity I’m after is something other people are looking for, too. I got confirmed in this by my nice meeting with Josko Gravner, which still produces wine in the old way, in amphoras. What nature offers us cannot be manipulated too much, otherwise we loose its inherent complexity and the vision of stuffs, which derives from the linear way in which nature goes on.

If we keep up with it, if after a lot of studies we can forget for a moment the superfluous things we learnt, i.e. what distinguishes erudition from wisdom, we are able to come back to purity.
The shape is matter, that’s it. The dish needs to be prepared by considering the raw ingredients; all the rest is just decoration.

To homage Gravner I’d like to cite to receipts: one is from 1985, the pigeon, just a bit flavoured, wrapped in paper, covered in clay and baked and the other is black truffle in a pastry of salt and egg white. For both this dishes the last step takes place at the table, where before serving is necessary to break the casing that contains their body and soul.

Gualtiero Marchesi

Mother earth

What is true for water is also true for wine: you need to go as close as possible to the source. The more we act on it, taking over from natural processes, the more we make the wine a beverage. Wine is the thinking and the meditation of its producer. Nothing should be removed or added to it.

The most important thing is to start from a great grape that, in my case, doesn’t come in more than half a kilogram per vine. It was in 1985, in Bergamo, while dining with Gino Veronelli and Attilio Scienza, that I heard for the first time about the Caucasus, where Noah planted the first vine grape. I managed to go there just in 2000, but since 1997 I started experimenting the must processing in Georgian amphoras, treated with bee wax and buried underground as they do from 5,000 years.

In the same way as a foetus, wine needs a maternal womb to grow, before spending seven years in big barrels and spending its life in bottles for other 49 years. Using amphoras to process wine allows it to breath and to ferment at the constant temperature of the earth, without adding yeasts, which are the same as artificial fecundation.

Vine is to earth as wine is to clay, to amphoras and, hence, to earth again.

Josko Gravner

di Gualtiero Marchesi, Josko Gravner