Voices 07/05/2012

Telling about yourself around the table

A course, by definition, concerns learning, in the shortest possible time, a number of information. Mastering what learnt allows to perform by ourselves what we were trained in, following as much as we can what we were told about the ingredients, the procedure and perhaps even the presentation.

And then? What comes after? What comes before? The idea of a food, the equilibrium of a menu, the philosophy of cooking, when do people learn them? When do people even start catching a glimpse of them?

This happens just when a chef starts handing down some of their personal history and vision. It happens when they decides to meet their guests and to offer them a meal that is a travel along their history, from ideas to techniques.

This second aspect of the matter cannot be separated from the first one and packaged in a course, even a good one. Even an accurate course still misses to explain the point of view on the intentions and the reasons of a chosen menu.

This is the reason why, together with the daily school in the restaurant, where there is direct confrontation between the chef and his apprentices, I created M’Arte.

M’Arte is a table where chefs serves and comments their dishes, tell about the idea that generated that food, the trial and error procedure, the comment received about it and the way to improve it.

My invitation is to eat together and to chat about food, cuisine and about everything the commensals’ brain or heart suggests.

di Gualtiero Marchesi